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V. Irving L.

The tragedy for the devastated area is so multidimensional, that just reading about the lost wine makes one gasp in horror. Seeing a damaged bottle makes you think of the hot summer night near the swamp as one is enjoying a cool glass of pinot noir while feasting on delicious supper surrounded by throngs of people. That is gone perhaps for a generation. With every bottle of wine there are a thousand stories.

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New York writer Betsy Andrews volunteers in some of New Orleans' best restaurant kitchens as they struggle to bounce back after Hurricane Katrina. Here, she reports on the daily successes and setbacks and shares her own experiences.

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